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You are here: Home / Archives for food/culinary

Make Muenster Cheese

January 22, 2015 by Jason 2 Comments

I made my first two wheels of muenster cheese last week. There are many recipes out there. I used the one in the Ricki Carrolls Cheesemaking book. This particular cheese, like brie and camembert, doesn’t require you to press the cheese curds, but to simply ladle them into a mould and let the whey express via gravity. It’s considered a mold-ripened cheese. Muenster is inoculated with Brevibacterium linens (red mold) and the development of this mold contributes to its unique flavor and it also makes it slightly stinky, but not like limburger.

Rather then using my regular 2 and 4 pound moulds, I needed a special mould. They have these cool wood moulds (small, medium and large) but they are very expensive… over $100 and it just wasn’t happening. So, I made some moulds out of food-grade polypropylene. Once I had the moulds, and the special bacteria, I was ready. There’s two ways you can use the red mould. 1. you can add it during the ripening stage with the starter culture. 2. you can mix with water and spray it on the cheese before it heads into aging. I opted for the first, adding during ripening.

20150114_145535
Raw cows milk… the best for most cheeses. The curd sets firm, and has a larger yield than store-bought whole milk.

For cheesemaking, I now use the Anova immersion circulator and I don’t know what I’d do without it. You can really control the temperature, including holding the same temperature for as long as you need, and also manage the ramping of temperatures needed in most cheesemaking. If you’re really a techie, here’s the Anova Culinary Sous Vide Precision Cooker w WI-FI and Bluetooth, the same unit, but has Wifi.

I made the cheese per the recipe I was using, and once done, ladled the curds from the pot with the whey in it to the moulds. You set up the “mould-sandwich” when you use these band-type moulds. That is, a cheese board on the bottom, then a cheese mat, then the mould, then another mat, and finally, another board. (See pics below). After you evenly distribute the curds into two moulds, you let it sit for 20 minutes or so. Then, you flip the mould, and let the cheese settle back down on the other mat. You do this flipping every 20 minutes so that the cheese doesn’t bind to the mat… and it develops the skin on the outside. Muenster is not as soft as brie or camembert but the process is just the same. You have to be careful not to tear the skin on the softer cheeses. This is easy to do if you don’t flip it often enough. The soft curd settles down into the mat and if left unchecked, the mold can rather quickly start binding the cheese to the mat.

After letting the cheese sit overnight in the moulds, I took out in the morning and put them both in the salt brine for 12 hours. After 12 hours, they come out and are patted dry with a paper towel. Then , they go into a 60F/85% RH environment. I put them in a covered pan, and into my meat curing chamber since it runs a little warmer than my cheese cave.

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Filed Under: cheesemaking, food/culinary, how-to Tagged With: cheesemaking, food/culinary, how-to

Make Brie and Camembert Cheese Moulds

January 22, 2015 by Jason 1 Comment

I’ve gotten to the point in cheesemaking where I needed to buy some specialized cheese moulds. Particularly, to make cheeses in the style of brie, camembert and muenster. They have these cool band-link wood moulds in small, medium and large sizes, starting at $70 and going well over $100. I knew right away it would be a while till I could get a hold of those, so in the meantime, I’ve found that you can use sheets of food-grade polypropylene. I used 1/8″ thick sheets. If you can find it thinner, it would work, and looking back, I’d go thinner since this stuff was more difficult to bend. Here’s what I did.

20150118_151303
Two moulds, formed in hot water and plunged into cold when done. They hold their shape pretty well.

Look up polypropylene on Amazon. I found offal sheets in the size of 12″ X 24″ for like $10-12. Free shipping for Prime Members. It was perfect really. One sheet made two moulds. Actually, I think these turned out a tad too tall. You could cut the sheet in thirds and get 3 perfect moulds. At the time, I cut it in half and made strips for two moulds.

To bend them, you have to boil water in a big pot on the stove. Get your biggest. Even the one I used was a little small (looking back). Once boiling, put and end of the sheet in the water to soften it. It works fast. Flip is and put the other end in. I was able to bend it enough to contour around the side of the pot I was using. I let it go for about 2 minutes. Then, used tongs to pull it out. It was soft enough to roll up tighter and tie some twine around it. it’s ok to make smaller than your final mould will be. It will want to unwind slightly after it’s done. Put it back in to boil for a couple of minutes, and fill up your sink with cold water. Remove the moulds from the pot and plunge into cold water while still tied. Let it cool, and you’re done.

That’s all there is to it. I go ahead and store them with the twine around them to help keep the sized shape I want for next time. Let me leave you with a word of caution. I did scald myself. I decided to get a wooden spoon and try to push the moulds down into my boiling pot of water a little more. They were somewhat flexed against the edges of my pot, so they were a little tight. I was pushing hard enough when the spoon slipped off the edge of the mould and pretty much plunged my hand into the pot of water. It was a quick scald. My hand totally made it… but the tender area around my wrist is what took a second degree. Also, while flexing the mould getting into the water–and perhaps out as well–be mindful that any tension on the plastic could spring and splash hot water on you. I’m pretty good around a stove, yet I managed to get a pretty good burn. Be careful.

Start with your cut sheet.
Here it is bent around the sides of a pot of hot water.
I had taken it out and rolled it tighter and tied with twine before putting back in.
Here are the finished moulds.
Here are the moulds in action. That’s muenster in there.
Here’s the cheese in the mould.
Here’s the cheese ready for brine.
Here’s the mark left on my wrist from a good scalding.

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Filed Under: cheesemaking, do-it-yourself, food/culinary, how-to Tagged With: cheesemaking, do-it-yourself, food/culinary, how-to

Drying peppers and making hot pepper powder

January 15, 2015 by Jason 6 Comments

I love peppers! All kinds, many kinds. I bring many pepper plants inside to overwinter. Some, I cut down for bonchi (making small pepper trees like bonsai) and others just to have ready to go back out the following year. For all my hotter varieties, I make hot sauce, or dehydrate and grind them down into a pepper powder that I use for charcuterie, or for just sprinkling on food.

Really simple stuff. The big thing is, when you harvest your peppers, don’t just let them sit around. First thing, give them a good wash while they are still firm. From here, they need to dry out. So, it doesn’t make sense to toss them on the counter to have them start drying only to have to come back and wash them. Once they are washed, sit them on a clean towel to soak up most of the water. Roll them around if you like. Move them off the towel after a day or so as you don’t want the moisture in the towel against the peppers any longer than necessary.

An assortment of hot pepper powders from the pantry.
An assortment of hot pepper powders from the pantry.

Move them to a sheet of cardboard, or I’ve used shoe boxes and lids before for smaller quantities. Don’t stack them. All should be laying flat to dry. Here is where you could leave them for a couple days if you didn’t have the immediate time. Otherwise, move them right into your dehydrator. The idea is to get them cleaned, and dried for the dehydrator before any mold starts inside. For the extra-paranoid type, you can cut the peppers in half. They will dry faster and if you are not using a dehydrator, then I especially recommend cutting them in half. See some safety tips below regarding handling the peppers.

Once you have them thoroughly dried out, watch out! It doesn’t take much to get it airborne. We’ll be grinding the peppers in the next step, and here too is where a respirator (or doing it outside) can be beneficial. For every cup of dried peppers, add a teaspoon of course salt… kosher or sea salt is fine. I used an apple wood, smoked sea salt this time, and it added an incredible smoky taste to my carolina reaper powder. Put all in a spice grinder or food processor, and grind until it has the coarseness you want. If you want flakes, grind only a little. For a powder grind a little more. It only takes a second! You can turn this dry mass of peppers into powder in under 5 seconds in a spice grinder, so grind a little and look at it… then grind more.

As you can imagine, there is a cloud of pepper powder in your grinder at this time. When you open it, it will be everywhere, trust me. Either do it outside, or have on a mask and eye protection. Serious, this can burn you up if even a little powder gets in your eye, on your face, or in a lung! Basically, you want to get it all out of your grinder and right into a jar with a lid on it as quickly and as efficiently as possible.

That’s it, enjoy!

A few safety tips on handling peppers of the hotter variety

Make sure you have the right gear for handling peppers. Don’t think your less of a person if you wear rubber gloves, eye-glasses and even a face-mask. Serious, I’m a pretty tough pepper-eater, but cutting up the carolina reapers (just in half) the other day had me choking. Open the windows or turn on your stove exhaust fan and cut them near there. I don’t recommend a fan as that blows it through the house and has everyone else choking too. This has happened more times than once in my house, even with my best effort to prevent it.

An assortment of hot pepper powders from the pantry.
Making carolina reaper pepper powder.
Dehydrated peppers and smoked sea salt.
Dehydrated carolina reaper peppers.

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Filed Under: food/culinary, homesteading, how-to Tagged With: food/culinary, homesteading, how-to

Rabbit sausage with Morels and Ramps

January 15, 2015 by Jason 1 Comment

Rabbit and morel sausage, or also known as, ‘Bunny Bangers’… one of my seasonal favorites. Seasonal because you must have fresh morels, and non-freezer-burnt rabbit. Deboning a rabbit is some pretty tedious work too. Whether you are harvesting your own rabbits, or buying them from a breeder, have that rabbit ready for when the morels pop! This has to be hands down, my favorite fresh sausage.

Like all sausage making, your equipment, trays, grinder head, stuffer, and all the meat and fat have to be cold! Cold as possible just short of frozen. Rabbit fat is good stuff. I use all of it and only add the needed amount of pork fat, Have it diced and frozen ahead of time. I also de-bone the rabbit and freeze it on flat trays ahead of time. This way, when it comes time to use it, you have a sheet of chopped rabbit meat that is ready to use after a very quick thaw (just enough to break it apart). Soak your casings in lukewarm water while you prepare everything else too.

Mix all your spices. This is a simple one. Salt, pepper and garlic. Nothing else is needed because you want to let the rabbit and morels shine. Admittedly, I change it up though. I’ve tried adding cumin and rubbed sage, and always fresh minced garlic. It’s really up to you. I list percentages below so that you can weigh out your trim and adjust your fat and spices accordingly.

Rabbit/Morel Sausage Recipe

  • Rabbit trim (deboned, chunked and mostly frozen)
  • 32% Fat back, cubed (mostly frozen)

Take total weight in grams of the rabbit trim + fat, and weigh out your spices.

  • 2% kosher salt
  • .2% cracked black pepper
  • .6% garlic (fresh, crushed or minced)
  • Morel mushrooms. However many you have, or want (chopped any size you like)
  • Optional: Ramps! They are usually in season along with morels.
  • Optional: 3/4 cup asiago, romano or parmesan (shaved or chunked)
  • 1 cup of red wine
  • 4-5 feet of casings

Some people add the spices to the meat and fat before grinding. Others, do it after grinding. I have tried both ways and cannot find a notable difference in taste but I have decided that I like to toss the meat and fat in the spices, then grind as helps get the spices well-integrated.

Have everything together, and cold, then grind that meat and fat into a bowl set in ice, or a deep-side tray. BUT DON’T GRIND THE MORELS OR RAMPS. You don’t want to chop them into oblivion. Once ground, add the spices (if you haven’t already) and mix together. Then add the wine and mix some more. The ramps can be chopped into 1 inch pieces. The morels should be cut to the size you like (bigger chunks for me) and then folded in to the final force-meat. Let sit for the pellicle. The time here depends on how cold you’ve managed to keep things. I find I have plenty of time to do the quenelle test (adjust the spices) and prepare the stuffer.

When the farce is sticky, stuff into the casings, twist and let sit for about 20 minutes to let it bind a little. I have not tried cold-smoking them yet. Some day, I will. Here is where I cut them to about 4 per pack and vac seal them before tossing them into the freezer.

To serve, I thaw completely, and give them a gentle poaching. If you are using the right vac seal bags, you can sous vide the sausages right in the bag before opening. Just be sure to not over-cook. You want the sausage still pink inside. Finish on the grill. Check out some of the pics.

Rabbit, Morel and Ramp Sausage 2021

Rabbit, Morel and Ramp Sausage 2020

Rabbit and Morel Sausage 2015

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Filed Under: charcuterie, food/culinary, how-to, recipe Tagged With: charcuterie, food/culinary, how-to, recipe

Cured egg yolks

December 22, 2014 by Jason Leave a Comment

I have to admit, I never heard of this until recently. Like anything else, quality ingredients make a good final product. Since I have some awesome egg-laying chickens, I had to try curing egg yolks. Pretty simple stuff really. Lay down a half-inch of iodized salt and put some impressions in the salt to catch the yolks. Separate the yolks from the whites and drop the yolks into the impressions you made in the salt. Then, cover the yolks with more salt until they are buried. Put them in the fridge for about 7-8 days. They will be firm by now. Brush off the bulk of the salt, and wrap the yolks gently in some cheese cloth or butter muslin. Put back in the fridge for another week or so. After that time, you can grate them like cheese on salads, or other creative uses you may dream up.

Salt ready to recieve yolks.
Yolks covered in salt.
Final cured yolks.

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Filed Under: food/culinary, how-to Tagged With: food/culinary, how-to

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About AllMorgan

AllMorgan started as a family blog to keep extended family and friends around the world apprised on what's going on at the Morgan Ranch. Over the years, it grew in to something so much more.

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Welcome to AllMorgan

AllMorgan started as a family blog to keep extended family and friends around the world apprised on what's going on at our Indiana homestead. It always been a cross between a family diary and photo … Read more

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The queen bee doesn’t decide what happens in a colony. The workers do. They adjust her feeding to make her do what the majority says. The queen can’t feed herself.

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